Hey watch lovers! If you’ve been following my Japan watch haul, you know I came back with four incredible timepieces — and today, we’re diving deep into one of my favorites: the Kuoe Old Smith 90-002 in 35mm bronze with the Kyoto Exclusive blue dial.
This wasn’t my first pick (I was eyeing the Royal Smith), but my husband fell in love with it — and honestly? I get it now.
Let’s break it down: the story, the specs, the experience, and whether this Japan-only bronze beauty is worth your yen.
A little bit about the trendiest microbrands out there: KUOE
Kuoe (pronounced “Kuo” — silent E) was founded in 2020 by Kenji Uchimura, a designer who studied in London and became obsessed with vintage British military watches — especially Smiths.
The name? It’s from his initials and birthday: K-U-O-E = Kenji Uchimura, October Eighth.
From a tiny workshop, Kuoe now has a flagship store in Kyoto with another upcoming in Tokyo. Kuoe also has few more stores in Korea.
The Kyoto Store Experience
If you’re in Japan, you must visit the Kuoe flagship in Kyoto — just a 30-minute train from Osaka.
Then? They assemble your watch right there. You get a number, wait a few minutes, and walk out with a custom Kuoe made just for you.
Pro Tip: Bring your passport! Tourists get tax-free pricing — I paid 64,170 yen (~$430 USD) vs. $635 online.
Kuoe Old Smith 90-002 Specs
Here’s the specs
| Spec | Detail |
|---|---|
| Case | 35mm CuSn8 bronze, 12mm thick, 42mm lug-to-lug |
| Lug Width | 18mm |
| Weight | ~55g (super light!) |
| Dial | Kyoto Exclusive blue textured grainy dial, applied Arabic numerals, railway track |
| Crystal | Domed sapphire with AR + AF coatings |
| Movement | Seiko NH38 (24 jewels, 21,600 vph, 41hr power reserve) |
| Water Resistance | 100m (10 bar) with screw-down crown |
| Lume | Swiss Super-LumiNova (decent glow) |
Why We Chose the Kuoe 90-002 Bronze (It Wasn’t Me!)
Here’s why he couldn’t resist:
- He loves blue dials
- This Kyoto Exclusive blue color is only available in-store
- He wanted a bronze watch (our first!)
- With his 16cm wrist, 35mm felt perfect — true to vintage military sizing
- The great legibility — big white numerals, big hands, dark dial
- We went with the blue leather strap because it was amazingly soft, and it pairs perfectly with the blue dial
The Bronze
Let’s talk bronze.
The display model was heavily patinated — it took 6–7 months to get that heavily aged look.
But here’s the thing: I love the pre-patina look — that warm, rose-gold-like glow. So I…
Kept it in a pouch with silica gel (PLEASE DON’T SHAME ME!)
Yes, I know — why buy a bronze watch then?!
My husband on the other hand? He’s fascinated with it.
Wearability & One Regret
On our small wrists? Perfection.
- Lightweight
- 35mm wears perfectly proportionate to our small wrists
- Blue dial shifts from dark navy to vibrant under sunlight
- Lume is functional, not flashy
One regret? Not getting the nylon strap — Instagram pics with the military field look are chef’s kiss.
Final Thoughts: Is the Kuoe Old Smith 90-002 Worth It?
Yes. 100% yes.
This isn’t just a watch — it’s a Kyoto souvenir, a microbrand success story, and a conversation starter.
- Microbrand heart & grit ✓
- Got to experience bronze watch for the first time
- Vintage-inspired, modern movement ✓
- Japan-exclusive dial ✓
- Tax-free deal ✓
We bought this with my own money — and that says everything.
More Japan Watch Content
- Seiko SBSC009 – Coming Soon!
- My Japan Watch Shopping Video (OSAKA & KYOTO)
