It’s been about five months since I picked up the Kuoe Royal Smith 90-010 during my trip to Japan, and honestly, I’ve been enjoying it more and more. Out of the four watches I bought on that haul, this one’s easily seen the most wrist time. If you’re into vintage sizing, Japanese microbrands, or that classic chrono-look without the hefty price, stick around – here’s my real, long-term take on the Kuoe Royal Smith 90-010.
Quick Intro to Kuoe and Why I Got This One
Kuoe is a young Japanese microbrand based in Kyoto that’s been blowing up lately – they totally deserve the buzz. I wish they’d sponsored this or sent it for free (LOL), but nope, I paid full price out of pocket. For more on their origin story, check out my earlier Kuoe video.
Case, Build, and That Chunky Vintage Feel
The case is a compact vintage-sized 35mm diameter with 43mm lug-to-lug, 18mm lug width, and 13mm thickness. Not gonna lie, my first in-person impression was “oh wow, it’s pretty thick for its size.” The all-polished design—no bevels or curves—makes it look even chunkier, like a cute little tuna can.
From the side, the thick bezel really stands out – it’s a simple one-piece with a brushed finish and no bevelling at all. Part of that thickness comes from the raised crystal: a boxed domed sapphire with AR (and AF) coating, sitting proud above the bezel for that classic glass-box vintage depth I love.
The Dial – Grainy Reverse Panda Magic (and Quirks)
It runs on the Miyota Cal. 9122 – a high-beat movement at 28,800 vph (smoother sweep than standard 21,600 vph mechanicals), with hacking, hand-winding, and ~40 hours power reserve.
To set it: pull the crown to first position and turn (up for date, down for day); pusher at 2 o’clock for the month. Super straightforward.
Do I need the month/day on my wrist? Not really – phone’s easier. But it’s fun, unusual, and nails that chrono aesthetic without the chrono price tag.
Dial options include plain ivory, panda, reverse panda, with vertical brushing or grainy texture. The plain ivory brushed is probably most legible; mine is the grainy reverse panda (Kyoto store exclusive), and combined with the texture (new for me), I couldn’t resist. My husband teases me constantly – he says he can’t read the time! LOL. But I have better eyesight, and watch buying is emotional, not logical.
Legibility’s better than expected – good lighting or right outdoor angle, it’s fine. The Breguet numerals and outer 60-minute silver scale add visual interest, though they make the dial busier and smaller-feeling. IMO, I like it. I also love tilting my wrist to catch light play on the golden hands and numerals – it’s mesmerizing.
Why 35mm Vintage Sizing Works for Me (Yes, Even as a Woman)
One big selling point for me (and Kuoe overall) is the vintage sizing. This 35mm is perfect.
I’ve gotten comments – some nice, some not – saying as a woman I shouldn’t wear “men’s” watches and should go smaller/daintier. Look, I’ve never chased big watches just to be big. 35-37mm is my sweet spot: I can actually enjoy the dial, details, sweeping seconds – everything. Anything under that, and it feels like I can’t appreciate the visual anymore.
My husband has a similar wrist size, so we share watches a lot. Though for this one, he really can’t – says he can’t read it at all, and he prefers his bronze Kuoe over this reverse panda.
Bracelets, Straps, and Why I Love the Beads-of-Rice
Speaking of sharing, the bracelet is amazing. I have the beads-of-rice and mixed-link. I LOVE the beads-of-rice – it brings out the vintage feel and elegance, super comfy at 18mm, and adds femininity to the chunky case, don’t you think? Perfect for sharing with tool-less micro-adjust: push slider to shorten, press button to lengthen.
Seriously, tool-less quick-adjust should be mandatory now – so helpful when swapping wrists.
Bonus: all straps (bracelets and leather) have quick-release spring bars – super convenient to change looks, no tools needed, just pop and swap.
The clasp is brushed with Kuoe engraving and secure push-button release. Links remove with push pins (tool provided), solid fitted end links hug the case perfectly.
I have the brown leather strap too, but 90% of the time it’s the BOR – it gets most wear.
Small gripe: store charges extra for link adjustments. I get it (labor, packed shop), but for first-timers, it’s unexpected and caught me off guard. They provide the tool, nice, but at this price, free sizing feels like a minimal expectation.
Customization, Movement, and Little Extras
Kuoe’s strength is customization: choose strap/bracelet, caseback (transparent or gold medallion). I went medallion – movement’s reliable/premium (as above), but rotor’s plain; medallion reminds me of vintage King Seikos I’m eyeing.
After longer wear, straight case sides leave a slight wrist imprint – nothing major, part of the design.
Packaging is nice: sturdy brown box usable as travel watch case. Cushion isn’t super malleable but squeezable/flexible enough for my 15cm bracelet size (or a couple watches). Extra pouch included – very nice for on-the-go protection.
Final Thoughts After 5 Months
Microbrands took me time to warm to – no long track record, real money spent. But Kuoe’s customer service is top-notch; buying in Kyoto felt special, like grabbing heritage from a historic city. Experience was awesome, even with crowds.
Overall, if you love vintage aesthetics, have a smaller wrist, and want to support a cool Kyoto microbrand, this is worth it. For chrono-look fans on a budget, it’s a fantastic alternative to their pricier chrono – different complication, but you get the two-subdial vibe at half the price.
I’m so glad I got it.
What do you think of the Kuoe Royal Smith 90-010? Would you go grainy reverse panda? Any other Japanese microbrands to check? Let me know in the comments!
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